Kauffman Says The House Is Just as Gloriously 90s-Fusion-y as Ever

By
It opened in 1993, you realize. Photo: Courtesy of The House

You don't hear too much about The House (1230 Grant Avenue) these days, despite the fact that it's been going strong for 20 years in North Beach and you still need a reservation most weekends. Today Jonathan Kauffman reminds us that the Asian-fusion genre that The House keeps alive helped launch the careers of Bruce Hill (Bix, Picco, Zero Zero) and Arnold Eric Wong (E Asian Kitchen). And he says the food at The House, while definitely nostalgic (think vertical cuisine, and plenty of ginger), still shows the "solid culinary technique" of owners Larry and Angela Tse, and is a nice reminder of "the playful, brash flavors and bright colors that characterized the [90s'] best food." [TastingTable]