Bauer Less Impressed With Rivoli These Days


Mr. Bauer updates us on the state of Berkeley's nineteen-year-old Rivoli, and it sounds like the years aren't treating the place so well. While chef Wendy Brucker may have been able to pull off crazy combinations of things on a plate in the past, he now finds several dishes that are "discombobulated" with "flavors ... in disarray." He balks at some lamb and pork meatballs cluttered with "polenta, cranberry beans, artichokes, soft-cooked eggs and a caper, celery and mint relish." He says the Caesar salad is still good, though, and the chocolate bread pudding. All told: two stars, and we're betting it gets dropped from the Top 100, which will come out in May this year. [Chron]