Mr. Bauer's thoughts on the swanky new downtown Chinese spot Hakkasan (One Kearny Street) arrived in Sunday's paper, and they're not all that positive. He appreciates the luxurious setting and the ascent to the second-floor dining room, which begs comparisons to Cecilia Chiang's long shuttered Mandarin at Ghirardelli Square. But he finds "obsequious" but "uneven" service, a Vegas-y air about the place, and food that is "generally fine, but [not] any better than you would get at a neighborhood dive," and at four times the price. He loves a dish of prawns with lily buds, almonds, and a green Thai curry-like sauce; a few of the tofu dishes; and a $28 duck salad. But he says the Hakka noodles are "drowned in a slick of oil that recalls Panda Express," and he has a few meat dishes that are less than stellar. All told: a so-so two stars overall, with one and a half for food. [Chron, Earlier slideshow]
Most Viewed Stories
What Went Wrong at Bark Hot Dogs?
The Ridiculous Rise of Viral Food and the Great Line Apocalypse
Mission Chinese Food’s Lunar New Year Party Featured a Small Army of Chefs
The Best NYC Restaurants for Groups
11 Last-Minute Valentine’s Gifts for NYC Food-Lovers
Latest News from Grub Street11 Last-Minute Valentine’s Gifts for NYC Food-Lovers
Halva worth splurging on, American charcuterie, wine to celebrate with, and more inspired options.So Burger King Is Going to Sell Chili Dogs Now
Seems a little incongruous.Misguided Maker of Skittles and M&Ms Swears Off Artificial Dye
What would Willy Wonka think?There’s a Subway Sandwich Shop Every 5 Frickin’ Blocks in Manhattan
That's probably too many.What Went Wrong at Bark Hot Dogs?
The popular Park Slope spot surprised everyone when it closed this month. Owner Joshua Sharkey explains what happened and why he made the decision.The Dumpling Emoji Is Under Official Consideration
Potatoes, avocados, pancakes, and even whiskey are in there, too.Watch April Bloomfield Charm America With Her Burger-Making Mastery
"This is like beef-on-beef."Mission Chinese Food’s Lunar New Year Party Featured a Small Army of Chefs
Chad Robertson and Jessica Koslow, among others, collaborated for the potluck dinner.Semilla to Serve Pop-up Pizza One Night Only
There will also be rare Spanish natural wines.New Report Accuses Restaurants of Passing Off Cheaper Fish As Lobster
A report found that 35 percent of dishes include inferior seafood.
In Florida, of course.Freud, From the Edi & the Wolf Team, Serves Up Austrian Mountain Cheese, Pork Neck, and Spaetzle
It opens tonight in Greenwich Village.The Ridiculous Rise of Viral Food and the Great Line Apocalypse
"These days, you can’t walk five blocks in Manhattan without stumbling onto a rabble of poor deluded souls, desperate to try some new foodstuff they read about ... "Beyoncé Is So Powerful She Can Single-Handedly Lift Red Lobster’s Sales
One lyric leads an entire nation to crave popcorn shrimp and cheddar biscuits.Hallelujah: Carnegie Deli Is Open Again
Don't call it a comeback.The Best NYC Restaurants for Groups
Whether you want a large-format feast or a cheap-eats spot big enough for a crowd, here’s where to go when you've got a crowd.Dunkin’ Donuts Accused of Overcharging New Yorkers ‘70 Percent of the Time’
Shops around town have allegedly made $10 million by taxing nontaxable food.A Japanese Chef Created Chocolate Ramen for Valentine’s Day
It's sure to make for a bittersweet dinner date.Here’s How Something Called Death Wish Coffee Got Its Own Super Bowl Ad
Caffeinated fans helped it win a public vote.Uber’s Food-Delivery App Will Price-Gouge Restaurants
It'll take a 30 percent cut of the bill.