the other critics

Bauer Says Incanto Has Slipped

Incanto

IncantoPhoto: Foodhoe

Last year was a big year for chef Chris Cosentino, winning Top Chef Masters and all, but Michael Bauer finds that in the past three years, the edginess of his Noe Valley restaurant Incanto has waned a bit, with the daily menu that's "gone more mainstream; no more mountain oysters, trotters and beef heart peppering the offerings." There is still the "Odds and Ends" board, featuring lamb kidneys and such, but Bauer is a bit disappointed in a "hoof and mouth" dish, which seems to be a pork trotter and head meat patty that was deep fried but "gristly" at the center. And he notes a few other dishes that were poorly prepared, like a roasted petrale sole that was served with all the pin bones, and some artichoke ravioli that were undercooked. All in all: two and a half stars (down from three in 2010). [Chron]

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