the other critics

Roth Cleanses Her Palate at Eiji in the Castro; Miller Not Yet Thrilled About Miss Ollie’s

Anna Roth decides to make up for holiday indulgence with a couple trips to Eiji, the tiny Japanese restaurant at 317 Sanchez Street known for their made-to-order oboro tofu. She loves its melting, comforting texture and barely-there flavor, complemented by a selection of condiments. She also loves the simple seafood soup called yosenabe, "a caldron full of white fish hunks, large prawns, shellfish, vegetables, and mushrooms of all shapes and sizes," calling it "warm and nourishing" and "restorative, like life's coming back with every sip — along with all those brain cells you destroyed on New Year's Eve." [SF Weekly]

Meanwhile, Virginia Miller takes a trip to Miss Ollie's, the new Caribbean spot in Oakland from chef Sarah Kirnon, which she says it's been a bit "uneven" so far, with extra-long lines and 30-minute waits for food after you order. She loves Kirnon's lamb patties and the Jamaican drink called sorrel, but she makes no mention of trying Kirnon's signature fried chicken, and says her version of saltfish and ackee is over-seasoned and over-spiced. She compares it to Back a Yard, another Caribbean restaurant in Menlo Park, where she says the saltfish and ackee, served only on Saturdays, is "a must." [SFBG]

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