the other critics

Anna Roth Not In Love With the Corner Store; Miller Finds Comfort at Company, Jamber

The Corner Store's burger.

The Corner Store's burger.Photo: Michael Bauer/Scoop

Anna Roth gives The Corner Store (Geary & Masonic) props for their Buffalo-style sweetbreads, calling the dish a "brave idea," but ultimately, "madness." It's an example of the menu's blending of high and low cuisines, she says, but it's also an example of where that effort goes "off the rails." She's a fan of the burger with bacon jam (something Mr. Bauer also happened to blog about today), and she loves the "brilliant" and boozy Grasshopper milkshake with creme de menthe and absinthe, but overall she's unimpressed. She says that a couple of entrees, like the half chicken and the pork chop, are fine, but nothing special, and she notes some service issues too. [SF Weekly, Miller's earlier take]

Virginia Miller does a dual review of Company (100 Guerrero Street) and Jamber (858 Folsom Street), noting that they're both serving renditions of "au courant" comfort food. She's especially fond of the environment, the dinner salads, confit chicken wings, and an eggplant panini at lunch at Company. At Jamber, as we previously were, she's blown away by the meatloaf, and all its mustard-y, bacon-y goodness. She also like the parmesan-rosemary "mashed potater tots," which are kind of more like croquettes, and the pork belly and peanut butter sandwich called the PB & Jam. [SFBG]

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