Posts for December 26, 2012

Q's Chef Randy Lewis Leaves for San Mateo's Kingfish

Hot off Michael Bauer's three-star review for Napa's Q Restaurant and Bar (formerly BarBersQ), its chef of four months, Randy Lewis, has announced he is leaving. The chef, who previously worked at Criolla Kitchen in San Francisco, is heading to Kingfish in San Mateo and cites limited resources and "personal circumstances" in this "mutually agreed upon departure." [Scoop, Earlier]

Miller Recommends Winter Tipples, With Pairings

Now available in your drink

It seems Virginia Miller of the Guardian has been merrily drinking her way around town, looking for noteworthy seasonal beverages and bites to go with them. On her list of recommendations is "the most adventurous drink on order this winter," Ame's blowfish fin sake, which is infused with an actual toasted fugu fin. Blowfish, as we know, can be lethal if not properly handled, but this drink is safe enough to imbibe, especially with a bowl of Ame's cuttlefish noodles. She also adores Blackbird's winter cocktail menu, particularly the Bols Genever and Nocino-based Harvest Moon, along with one of the bar jars as a snack. She also finds much to like on 15 Romolo's "Sherry Christmas" menu and says the Solstice Sour manages to "capture winter in an almost spring-like way." She describes Jasper's Corner Tap & Kitchen's Diedrich's Genki cocktail as "simultaneously spicy, perky, refreshing" and to be paired with the "fun" trio of deviled eggs. [SFBG]

Bauer Walks Down Memory Lane at Trident in Sausalito; Hirsch Delighted by Basque Cultural Center; Roth Finds Worthy Deep-Dish at Capo's

Over at the Chron, Michael Bauer reviews the revitalized Trident in Sausalito, overhauled by the people behind the Buena Vista Cafe in San Francisco. He is transported to the 1970s, in a good way, when the waterfront restaurant was in its heyday and Janis Joplin had a table in the corner. He enjoys the crisp batter of the fried calamari, fresh-tasting clams, and thick cioppino, but notes the "quality of the food seesawed" during his visits, including in an undistinguished main course of petrale sole. As for desserts, he recommends the lava cake, but says to skip the toothache-inducing pistachio ice cream sandwiches. Overall, he says the food is "good enough, and better than at most places in this tourist town." Verdict: two stars. [Chron, Earlier]

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HRD Coffee Shop Expanding to North Beach

Coming soon to North Beach

SOMA's beloved hole-in-the-wall HRD Coffee Shop is opening an offshoot called HRD Smokin Grill in the former Dogfather space in January. This means North Beach denizens will soon be able to wrap their hands around spicy pork kimchee burritos, Mongolian cheesesteaks, and other East-meets-West gut bombs. The new menu is expected to be bigger than the original, and there are even talks of dinner service. This will certainly pose a challenge to some New Year's resolutions. [Scoop, Earlier review]

Txoko Closing After New Year's Eve

Another restaurant bites the dust as the year comes to a close, this time in North Beach. Spanish-inspired Txoko announced it will close after dinner service on New Year’s Eve. Chef Ian Begg and co-owner Ryan Maxey opened Txoko in May 2011 in the old Enrico's space. However, the restaurant struggled to find its footing, changing its menu structure and adding brighter lighting and bar stools earlier in January. Critics liked the restaurant well enough, but it seemed the neighborhood, the often-seedy strip of Broadway, got the best of it. Maxey and Begg will continue to run Naked Lunch, and don't be surprised if they host a pop-up dinner or two in the former Txoko space next year. [Scoop, Earlier]

2012: The Year in Made-up Food Words

White Alba truffles: Cloudy, with a definite chance of flurries.Photo: FILIPPO MONTEFORTE/Getty

Last week, the Food Section took the appropriate steps to make sure no one forgets about butt-chugging and pink slime in 2013 with its roundup of this year's stand-out neologisms and other food terms, which got us thinking: It's been an exceptional year for food words. The Times gave broader circulation (and immortality) to the words "Donkey Sauce" and "bleu-sabi" when it published its now-famous negative-star review of Guy's American Kitchen last month, so much that Pete Wells might as well have chiseled the Guy Fieri's menu onto a solid gold record and launched it, with a message from the U.N.'s secretary-general, into deep space, à la Voyager 1. While butt-chugging and Donkey Sauce were getting all the play, no one noticed that sriracha made it into the Oxford English Dictionary.

Farmwashing, foodhazing, and faux-raging. »

Damage Control: What You Should Be Binge-Eating When You’re Drunk at Three in the Morning

Smile, you're preventing a hangover.Photo: Corbis

Everyone's been there: It's 3 a.m. and you're stumbling around smelling like booze and bad choices. Well done. But now you're starving and your decision-making skills are in rough shape (especially if it's New Year's Eve). The idea that a greasebomb meal will completely prevent tomorrow's inevitable hangover is, sadly, a myth. But we talked to a bunch of professional nutritionists to see what someone can actually eat if they don't want to cause too much more damage and hope to soften the blow the next morning. And don't worry: The advice isn't all wheatgrass and beet juice. Even the pros know that late-night binge-eating should be satisfying.

Grilled cheese, cereal, and cherry pie. »


Recent reader reviews on MenuPages

  • Lucca Food Store See the menu

    “Billy's Philly”

    Billy is only there after 5 pm but if you are around go there and ask for his billy philly, the best philly you'll find this side of the Mississippi.

  • Le P'tit Laurent See the menu

    “Elegant Sauces & Fabulous Bread”

    It is the place me and my love go for every intimate moment.

  • Hidive See the menu

    “Are you kidding?”

    You have to be totally drunk to think that this is even acceptable as a public watering hole.


Jay Barmann
NY Mag