Posts for November 16, 2012

Actually Pretty Awesome: Manti Dumplings at Troya Fillmore

The manti, in their sauce.Photo: J. Barmann/Grub Street

Avid traveler that she is, local critic Patricia Unterman recently took a trip to Turkey, and when she came back she says she was "homesick" for Turkish food. She found, and subsequently turned us onto, the food at the new Troya Fillmore, specifically a few of the dishes prepared by "a little Turkish woman in a head scarf and apron in the partially open kitchen at the back, who looked like the women who cooked for [her] in their homes in small villages near Antakya and Gazientep." One of those dishes, manti, which are a Turkish version of ravioli in a creamy yogurt sauce, is a sure standout for us, and unlike anything we've ever tasted.

Read more »

Chocolate Lab Is Open; Miki’s Market Debuts in Palo Alto

Dogpatch: Heads up: Chocolate Lab (801 22nd Street) is open, right on schedule. [Dogpatch Howler, Earlier]
Hayes Valley: Moishe's Pippic (425 Hayes) just turned 25, and owner Joe Sattler is still proud of his matzo balls, which are floaters, not sinkers, because "they're like mousse." The word "pippic," in case you've always wondered, is Yiddish for belly button, and the deli had that name before Sattler bought it in 1987. [Scoop, Earlier]
Palo Alto: Miki's Farm Fresh Market, from a former Berkeley Bowl manager, just opened at 3445 Alma Street in Palo Alto, selling good local produce, Uruguayan beef, and more. [Chow]

Someone’s Getting Fired: Donald Trump Steak House Fails Health Inspection

"It's the greatest expired yogurt in the world!"

Symbolic of all the faded luxury once associated with Donald Trump's name, the ferret-haired millionaire's eponymous Las Vegas steakhouse, DJT, was recently shut down by Sin City health inspectors after being cited for 51 code violations. Among them was the discovery of month-old caviar, improperly stored food, parasites in the halibut, aged veal stock, and expired yogurt. The place reportedly reopened with the issues fixed, but we won't believe that until the Donald sends us his complete health inspection certificate by 5:00 p.m. on Tuesday. [HuffPo]

Where to Eat Out, Or How Best to Eat In, on Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving seems to be approaching faster than usual this month, and for those who don't yet have anywhere to go, 7x7 has just put together a list of prix fixe deals and such around town. (One Market and Bourbon Steak sound the best to us, if you have the means, and Presidio Social Club has a swell deal for $49, with a sweet take-home option as well.) Also, Ms. Tablehopper put together a handy list of DIY and takeout ideas, from 4505 Meats' turducken to Square Meals' side dishes to go. And if you are cooking, do try to remember Mary Risley's sage advice that went viral last November: Just put the fucking turkey in the oven.

Daniel Holzman Returns to Bay Area For Meatball Shop Pop-Up

Some of Holzman's many meatballs.Photo: Hannah Whitaker/NY Mag

Chef Daniel Holzman, the former SPQR chef who high-tailed it out of S.F. three years ago to open The Meatball Shop in NYC, is returning with partner Michael Chernow to join former Meatball Shop chef Kyle Itani at Itani's new Oakland restaurant Hopscotch (1915 San Pablo Avenue). The trio will be doing a Meatball Shop pop-up on Monday, December 3, featuring a variety of meatballs, heroes, sides and cookies, and there are no reservations required. It runs from 5 p.m. to midnight, or until they run out of meatballs.

Check Out a Vintage Thanksgiving Menu From Alcatraz, ca. 1927

We love a historic menu, and here, from the New York Public Library menu archive, is one from an officers' Thanksgiving dinner on Alcatraz Island, November 24, 1927. Alcatraz was a military prison at that point, and the guests of honor at this dinner, in the General Mess Hall, were Commandant G. Maury Crallé, Major John L. Homer, Captain F.W.T. Sterchi, and Lieutenant C.E. Snyder. See what was served, below.

Read more »

No Really, M.Y. China Is Opening, on December 3

It's been two years since we first heard wind of the project, and a year of moving-target dates for Martin Yan's M.Y. China at the Westfield, but now that it's mid-November we feel we should tell you that they won't be hitting their last announced mid-November opening date. As of today, they're saying December 3 is definitely the date, and you should note that the menu is going to cover the sixteen regional cuisines of China, so that's kind of ambitious. [Eater, Earlier]

Chris Kronner to Launch KronnerBurger November 25; Will Open One or Two Permanent Locations Next Year

And he has a logo.Illustration: via Chris Kronner

Former Bar Tartine and Slow Club chef Chris Kronner has been bouncing around town recently doing pop-ups featuring his signature burger with aged beef and optional bone marrow. Now, as it happens, he's got a full-fledged, brick-and-mortar burger business in the works called KronnerBurger, with not one but two possible locations, one in the Mission and one on Polk Street. Before those deals get inked, however, he'll be popping up once more at Namu Gaji on Monday, November 19, from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.; and he'll be moving into a temporary space next door to Bruno's at 2379 Mission Street on Sunday, November 25, if all goes well. As the Scoop earlier reported the beta launch of KronnerBurger will take up semi-permanent residency in Bruno's overflow space, but won't be open past 9 p.m. on Friday or Saturday nights because that's when Bruno's uses the space. Hours will generally be 6 p.m. "til late." There is a full liquor license there too, and Kronner tells us he has a "fun bartender" who'll be joining him. We'll update you when he has a lease, or leases, signed. [Earlier]

Astoundingly Skinny Matthew McConaughey Contemplates His Ultimate Burger Binge

Give this man some mayo.Photo: Josiah Kamau/BuzzFoto/FilmMagic

He's shedding pounds for an upcoming role as an eighties-era HIV patient in The Dallas Buyer's Club, and like any dutiful dieter, Matt McConaughey's dreaming about food — and he has some very specific ideas about what he'd like to eat. Toppings-laden cheeseburgers, for instance.

Read more »

Aquitaine, a New Wine Bar From Laurent Manrique, Coming to Former John Walker Space

Chef Laurent Manrique

Speaking of chef Laurent Manrique — who won't be hosting the Taste & Tribute dinner tonight at the Four Seasons because he's in Monaco for the big Alain Ducasse event we told you about, and who continutes to operate two wine bars (Blanc et Rouge and Rouge et Blanc) downtown — this morning brings news of a new project coming to 175 Sutter Street. Manrique and two partners are opening Aquitaine, another wine bar, in the space that formerly was home to fancy liquor store John Walker & Co. The liquor license app appeared this a.m., and the Scoop gets some clarification. Manrique is actually growing his wine bar empire in both San Francisco and New York, and the menu at Aquitaine will be more than just cheese and paté — there will also be some hot food, with classic dishes from his home region of Gascony, like cassoulet and confit de canard. Look for it to open by spring. [ABC, Scoop]

Time to Mourn: Watch Sixteen Vintage Hostess Commercials

Today's news that Hostess will close has almost instantly prompted Twinkie mourning and nostalgic missives. Sure, another company will likely buy up the brands, but things just won't be the same. To help you cope with the loss, we've rounded up some truly retro ads from over the years — remember Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle Pies? — that you can watch while you wallow in your cream-filled sadness.

Read more »

Obamacare Isn’t Forcing Restaurants to Cut Employees’ Hours

Photo: Spencer Platt/2012 Getty Images

Several restaurant CEOs have suggested recently that since President Obama is keeping his job, their employees' jobs might be in danger. Owners of chains like Papa John's, Olive Garden, Denny's, and Applebee's say that because of the Affordable Care Act, they'll be forced to reduce employees' hours since they can't afford to provide more full-time workers with health insurance or pay the fines for leaving them uninsured. Online Obamacare supporters called for a boycott of the restaurants, and opponents argued that the law will hurt restaurant workers as well as all who turn to them for a cheap, greasy dinner that isn't served in a paper wrapper. However, the claim that the health-care law is worsening conditions for restaurant employees is dubious.

Read more »

The (Possible) End of Twinkies: Hostess Will Close Forever

Time to stock up, armageddon-style.Photo: Scott Olson/Getty Images

Start hoarding those Cupcakes: Hostess — the company that makes Twinkies, Cupcakes, Ho Hos, Ding Dongs, and all the other little plastic-wrapped cake-y things you begged your mom for when you were little — will shut down.

Read more »


Recent reader reviews on MenuPages

  • Lucca Food Store See the menu

    “Billy's Philly”

    Billy is only there after 5 pm but if you are around go there and ask for his billy philly, the best philly you'll find this side of the Mississippi.

  • Le P'tit Laurent See the menu

    “Elegant Sauces & Fabulous Bread”

    It is the place me and my love go for every intimate moment.

  • Hidive See the menu

    “Are you kidding?”

    You have to be totally drunk to think that this is even acceptable as a public watering hole.


Jay Barmann
NY Mag