Posts for November 14, 2012

Miller Rounds Up the Best Bagels and Doughnuts; Roth Tests Out 331 Cortland

Bagels. San Francisco isn't exactly known for them. But lately we have been getting a few more fine examples around the Bay. Virginia Miller rounds up some newish examples, like Schmendricks (a pop-up at Fayes Video and Espresso Bar, 3614 18th Street, Wednesday and Friday mornings), Wise Sons Deli, and Beauty's Bagels in Oakland (3838 Telegraph Avenue). Also, since they're also round, she adds new doughnuts to the mix, like Oakland's Donut Savant and Doughnut Dolly. [SFBG]

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Sonoma Wants to Disown Hometown Boy Guy Fieri Too

Today's top food story, obviously, has been Pete Wells's hilarious takedown of Guy Fieri's vulgar, new, 500-seat Times Square restaurant, Guy's American Kitchen & Bar. Now, since Fieri has a couple of restaurants up north and hails from Santa Rosa, himself, Sonoma food blog BiteClub Eats gets in on the game. They admit that, even if it is "so Wine Country of us" to be snooty about such things, they haven't even set foot in a Johnny Garlic's or Tex Wasabi's. And "we gnash our teeth that his food is connected in any way with Sonoma County, home of fresh, local, sustainable food." Also, as diplomatic as they try to be about it, they're bitter that he refuses to talk to any local media, "wall[s] himself into his home compound and surrounding himself with fellas who weigh 350 pounds and wear jackets that say Kulinary Krew," and generally "hasn’t always remembered the little people who got him where he is." Let's not forget he's the only person in the county with a yellow truck that looks like this. [BiteClub, Earlier]

New Taste Marketplace Gets New Life Via Critic Jesse Hirsch

Here's what it looks like, from above.Photo: New Taste Marketplace/Flickr

SF Examiner critic and former East Bay Express critic Jesse Hirsch is trying his hand at something non-criticism-related — he's been roped into becoming the organizer of New Taste Marketplace, the monthly artisan food market at St. Gregory's in the Potrero that started two years ago. The market benefits The Food Pantry, and as Hirsch tells Eater, he couldn't say no after directors Elianna Friedman and Michael Davidson moved on, and they needed a new head. "It's refreshing to take a break from criticizing and actually do something," Hirsch says. But don't look to meet him at the next event on December 1: He's going to try to stay anonymous, and may even be wearing a mask. [Eater]

Danny Bowien Reveals His Hair-Color Secrets

"I do it in my bathroom, sitting on my toilet. You have to not be afraid to fuck up your hair, put bleach on it, let it sit for an hour, put on foil, and blow dry it ... The other day I was talking to someone at a really big magazine, and they asked me about the story behind my hair, and I was like, I don’t know. Nothing. It’s just long." — Mission Chinese Food chef-owner Danny Bowien in a new interview about being called "the hipster chef," and which place he loves more, San Francisco or New York. [Refinery 29]

It’s Turducken Time Once More at 4505 Meats

With all the Thanksgiving talk now happening pretty much everywhere, those who haven't yet figured out from whence their big meal will come may want to consider the marvelous turducken that Ryan Farr of 4505 Meats makes each year. (For the uninitiated, it's a deboned chicken stuffed inside a deboned duck stuffed into a deboned turkey.) You can buy your own Grand Turducken (feeds up to 30) for $380, or just get a Turducken Junior (feeds 10 to 12) for $195. And for real, people, this is no time for DIY. You'll thank us later. [SFist]

First Look at Capo’s, the New Chicago-Style Pizzeria From Tony Gemignani

Pizzaiolo Tony Gemignani is not satisfied just being a talented pizzaiolo who can turn out a perfectly blistered Neapolitan pie. Since expanding the menu at Tony's Pizza Napoletana last year, he's been teaching San Francisco about other pizza typologies, from several American regional variations to Roman-style pizza by the meter. Now, Friday marks the official opening of Capo's (641 Vallejo Street), his much anticipated new project where he'll delve into the one beloved pizza type we haven't seen from him, and which North Beach hasn't seen at all: Chicago-style deep dish. We've got some photos of the swank new spot, which takes its design inspiration from Al Capone's Chicago of the 1920s.

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White Gold: A Look at the 2012 Italian Truffle Trade

A humongous Italian truffle in Alba.Photo: FILIPPO MONTEFORTE/Getty

For Americans, this time of year means turkeys and pumpkin pies. For Italians, and owners of the world's most expensive restaurants, it means white truffles. From late October until Christmas, the ten-week season is one of the shortest — and most profitable — on the culinary calendar. But this year, a hot, dry summer has left many patches barren, and some are calling it one of the scarcest truffle seasons ever. Even still, restaurants don't seem to be having too much trouble tracking truffles down this year. How so? We tracked truffles from Italy to restaurant tables in the U.S. to find out.

Ever been to a truffle nursery? »

Dandelion Chocolate Opens Today; Chocolate Lab Opens Friday

The counter at Dandelion Chocolate, with the factory in the rear.Photo: Courtesy of Dandelion Chocolate

Following a few delays, today marks the grand opening of Dandelion Chocolate's retail operation at 740 Valencia. As we've previously reported, it's a venture by former tech entrepreneurs Todd Masonis and Cameron Ring and had previously been wholesale only, with a factory in the Potrero. Now, both the factory and a retail café have come to Valencia Street, in the same former auto-body complex that's now home to Abbot's Cellar and Craftsman & Wolves. The café won't actually be operational for a couple of weeks, but soon, in addition to chocolate bars, you can expect brownies and cookies and such from former Fifth Floor pastry chef Phil Ogiela. And that's not the only chocolate-centric business debuting this week...

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Drakes Bay Oyster Company Endangered By Coastal Commission Crackdown

For the past few years, Drakes Bay Oyster Company in Point Reyes has been fighting off state regulators who've been threatening to shut down their oyster farming operation. The farm's federal lease on its coastal waters, which it's had since 1965, is set to expire at the end of this month, and the California Coastal Commission says Drakes has been violating state law in several ways through its operations — namely by digging an illegal electrical trench, leaving behind plastic material, and operating boats in protected areas. Also, they say, Drakes has been operating without proper state permits since 2007. (You may recall, unrelatedly, that Drakes recently had to recall some oysters after some people were possibly sickened by them.) U.S. Interior Secretary Ken Salazar is set to make a decision soon as to whether Drakes may continue operations, or whether the area around Drakes Estero will become California's first protected marine wilderness. [EBX, Earlier]

Papa John’s Sued for Pizza Spam

Fanning the flames of controversy.Illustration: Mary-Louise Price

It's the middle of the night. You've downed a greasy slice or two of pizza and settled in for a peaceful slumber, Adult Swim flickering in the background, when your phone rattles. A text! You sit up, rub your eyes, and wonder if you really did give out your number at the bar last weekend ... and to whom. You grope about in the dark, trepidatious but a touch excited. And then you see it: The text is from Papa John's. And they want to sell you more pizza. You drop the phone and roll over. Until your phone rattles again. And again. And again. Up to sixteen times in a row. Well good news, person who was text-spammed by Peyton Manning's favorite pizza place — you aren't alone.

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Twenty-eight of the Best Twitter Reactions to the New York Times’ Guy Fieri Takedown

How's he doing today?

If you're like us, you were woken up at 2 a.m. by a call from your 80-year-old grandmother in Butte wondering who exactly this Pete Wells person is and what did Guy Fieri ever do to him that would cause the New York Times to publish such a negative review of the Food Network host's sprawling 500-seat restaurant in Times Square. The review — in which Wells compares the house margaritas to radiator fluid and formaldehyde and ruminates, in an all-question format, about the exact origins of Guy's "Donkey Sauce" — has now been tweeted around the world. As should be expected, Wells has some new fans, and Fieri has some staunch supporters here in New York. But the rest of the county? Let's just see what @teenmom4evr has to say about all of this.

Strong language and adult situations ahead. »

Of Course Someone Involved in the Petraeus Sex Scandal Appeared on Food Network

Jill Kelley, not cooking alligator.Photo: Chris O'Meara/AP/Corbis

Jill Kelley, the Florida woman whose initial complaints about harassing e-mails set the entire Petraeus sex scandal in motion, has apparently been in the spotlight before. Sounds like she and her twin sister appeared in a 2003 episode of a no-longer-in-existence Food Network show called Food Fight. There isn't any footage online (yet — give it like three more hours), but according to an old write-up in the St. Petersburg Times, Kelley and her twin sister took on two brothers in an alligator cook-off.

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Recent reader reviews on MenuPages

  • Lucca Food Store See the menu

    “Billy's Philly”

    Billy is only there after 5 pm but if you are around go there and ask for his billy philly, the best philly you'll find this side of the Mississippi.

  • Le P'tit Laurent See the menu

    “Elegant Sauces & Fabulous Bread”

    It is the place me and my love go for every intimate moment.

  • Hidive See the menu

    “Are you kidding?”

    You have to be totally drunk to think that this is even acceptable as a public watering hole.


Jay Barmann
NY Mag