Tom Tamir, the sushi chef at the new Elephant Sushi (1916 Hyde Street), isn’t afraid to get down with pyrotechnics. And that’s alright with us when it produces creations like the flaming sea bass roll, which comes, literally, flaming to the table and encased in foil. Once the fire dies down and it’s safe to unwrap the goods, you are rewarded with a slightly warm and satisfying roll of baked sea bass, spicy tuna, masago aioli, Japanese chili, scallion, and sweet soy. The crunch of the masago helps to offset the otherwise creamy orgy of flavors, which includes just enough spiciness and a hint of fragrant shiso.


