The Other Critics

Bauer Says Seven Hills ‘Could Be Better’; Roth Reviews 1058 Hoagie; Miller Checks Out Kirimachi Ramen

Seven Hills
Seven Hills

Michael Bauer returns for the second time to Seven Hills, about a year and a half since his first review, and what he finds doesn’t thrill him. Despite promises from friends that Alexander Alioto’s cozy Russian Hill restaurant had improved, he finds the service still shoddy (he obviously wasn’t recognized and was rushed through the end of his meal), and several dishes over-salted. He’s still a fan of the eggy ravioli uovo, and he calls the fried chicken accompanied by spinach, cheesy polenta, and green olives “clever.” But all in all, he has no idea how they landed so high up on this year’s Zagat survey. He downgrades them from two and a half to two stars. [Chron]

Meanwhile, colleague Allen Matthews at the Chron gets dispatched to Glen Park to check out Manzoni (2788 Diamond Street), a little neighborhood Italian spot which opened in late 2011 and has thus far flown under the radar. He says the puttanesca is executed “flawlessly,” and the papardelle with a rich pork sugo is good too. He’s disappointed with a dish of mussels and clams in tomato broth, which contained some less-than-fresh mussels, and he says a rigatoni dish with sausage was bland. All told: two stars. [Chron]

Anna Roth at the Weekly reviews 1058 Hoagie (180 7th Street), the new spinoff of the Deli Board from sandwich maestro Adam Mesnick. She says the little shop feels like “a spruced up Subway,” and the sandwiches are far better. They’re all Philly-style, cold hoagies on soft, sesame-seed rolls, and she’s most into the #2, a pepperoni and salami sub with olive salad and sun-dried cherry tomatoes; and the vegetarian #4 sub, with fresh mozzarella, artichoke hearts, olive salad, and shum spread (mayo, garlic, and basil pesto). [SF Weekly]

And over at the Guardian, Virginia Miller offers up her thoughts on three new Japanese restaurants with reasonable prices: Camp BBQ, Shabuway, and Kirimachi Ramen. She especially likes the scallops and the sliced pork and pork cheek options at Camp BBQ. And at North Beach’s Kirimachi, she’s fond of the “Sapporo-style miso ramen with chopped pork, Chinese chives, bean sprouts, corn, with additional toppings ($1) including kikurage mushroom, fish cake, and soft-boiled egg.” [SFBG]

Bauer Says Seven Hills ‘Could Be Better’; Roth Reviews 1058 Hoagie;