the other critics

Bauer Can’t See His Food in Dark Lolinda, Gives It Two Stars

The New York steak at Lolinda, served on a cutting board with grilled bread, a roasted tomato, and chimichurri sauce.

The New York steak at Lolinda, served on a cutting board with grilled bread, a roasted tomato, and chimichurri sauce.Photo: Alanna Hale/Grub Street

Mr. Bauer gives his three-visit critique of Lolinda in Sunday's paper, and unlike his longstanding love for sister restaurant Beretta (which we've never totally understood), it's not all good. He enjoys a few things, including this lentil salad we also liked, as well as one with beets, potato, celery and arugula. He also loves the tira, a braised short-rib stew in a tomato-saffron sauce, most of the cocktails, and the flank steak board from the grill. But he's disappointed with the service (making fun of one server who delivered two cocktail glasses by their stems and consequently had to shuffle "like a toddler learning to walk" to deliver them), the dark bar area where all his meat looked like "lumps of coal" in low light, and the desserts, and all told, it's a two star review. [Chron]

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