The Other Critics

Hirsch Loves The Codmother at the Wharf; Deseran Launches New Column; Unterman Reviews Contigo

Suzanne Acevedo, owner of The Codmother.
Suzanne Acevedo, owner of The Codmother. Photo: Mike Koozmin/Examiner

Noting that “we long ago ceded Fisherman’s Wharf to the socks-and-sandals crowd, a demographic … not known for discerning palates,” Examiner critic Jesse Hirsch insists that there is in fact a gem in the rough over there: The Codmother (2824 Jones Street). It’s a fish-and-chips shack opened by a cute British lady, and he says her fish is expertly battered and fried, and “the chips were hand-cut, flavorful Kennebecs.” Furthermore, she does deep-fried Oreos and Twinkies, which are “an experience you should probably try once. But not after a meal of deep-fried fish and potatoes.” [Examiner]

Meanwhile, over at the San Francisco magazine site, incoming web editor Sara Deseran has taken up where she left off at 7x7 with a new weekly column called Famished. She gives a shout-out to a tasty goat-cheese sandwich from Naked Lunch, and moves on to describe a first-week meal at the brand new St. Vincent. She actually talks more about the beverage program, noting the half-bottle option on all the bottles on the main list, and that they happily have an 8-ounce option for the beers, for those who don’t need a whole pint. [SF Mag]

And Patty Unterman has been pumping out the reviews on her new website, this week adding her thoughts on LihoLiho Yacht Club — which she says “fully captures the personal voice of the cook [Ravi Kapur], and expresses it with so much verve, surprise and technical brilliance” — and Noe Valley favorite Contigo, where she says the food “is radiant because it is so fresh.” [Unterman on Food]

Hirsch Loves The Codmother at the Wharf; Deseran Launches New Column; Unterman