The Other Critics

LaBan Gives Two Bells for Fairmount’s Hickory Lane; Cherry Hill’s Sang Kee Noodle Café Delivers an ‘Onslaught of Deliciousness’

• LaBan strolls down memory lane on his way to Fairmount. He talks up Hickory Lane Chef, Matt Zagorski’s professional pedigree. And he swoons over the memory of Rouge burgers past before promptly going into chastise-mode. He knocked the “Mr. Science” kit of techniques that he said are used as “obligatory trappings of ambitious young chefs who want to be known as “serious” — no matter if the results looks like a soapy hair treatment.” A lack of ice for the BYO cocktails also left LaBan wanting. But in what he calls “Zagorski’s secret trump,” the Hickory burger’s “beefy swagger” was enough to ring the bell twice for Fairmount’s Hickory Lane. [Inquirer]

• Even on a Tuesday, Adam Erace found every table at Sang Kee Noodle Café packed. And with the exception of the pork juicy buns that were “not very juicy,” Erace enjoyed a literal “onslaught of deliciousness.” The Szechuan meat noodle soup’s “spicy sauce redolent of garlic, ginger and chilies” prompted a hedonistic slurp session. And an order of “extra fat and sweet” New Zealand mussels were a surprising hit swimming in a red curry that was “right on.” [Courier Post]

• 22nd & Philly visited Xfinity Live! but were far from sold on the culinary experience. The food at Victory is “stadium quality at best,” they said, but the “wide range of Victory beers on tap is a win.” Overall, they recommend that serious eaters “stick to grilling at a tailgate. It’s not a place to go just for the food.” [22nd & Philly]

LaBan Gives Two Bells for Fairmount’s Hickory Lane; Cherry Hill’s