The Other Critics

Bauer Updates La Mar; Hochman Impressed With Mission Bowling Club Fare

The bar at La Mar.
The bar at La Mar. Photo: Bittermelon/Flickr

Mr. Bauer this week revisits La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, most commonly known as La Mar or “that fancy ceviche place on the Embarcadero.” The four-year-old restaurant was the first American outpost of Peruvian chef and restaurateur Gaston Acurio, who also opened a New York branch last year. They’ve got a new chef, Diego Oka, and Bauer finds that while he always liked the cocktails and ceviches, Oka has improved upon the entrées, like the Chinese-inflected halibut, which he says is truly a “main event.” As for the desserts, they’re “a let-down,” but he recommends just skipping that course and making sure to get seats on the patio. All told: two and a half stars. [Chron]

And the interim reviewing at the Weekly, post-Kauffman, continues this week with Alex Hochman offering up his take on Mission Bowling Club, two weeks after Hirsh gave us his thoughts. Though he admits to being bowling-averse, Hochman says the bowling-friendly fare, like the famed Mission burger and Anthony Myint’s playful takes on the corndog and fried chicken are terrific. He also likes the bar area, and the helpful bartenders encouraging him to taste as many beers and liquors as he pleased. But the off-to-the-side dining room feels like “a penalty box,” he says, and the slightly fancier dishes, like roasted salmon and the beet plate seem off. [SF Weekly]

Bauer Updates La Mar; Hochman Impressed With Mission Bowling Club Fare