The Other Critics

Bauer Loves the Food, Hates the Service at Gilberth’s

Mr. Bauer drops in on our “most up-and-comingest” neighborhood, Dogpatch, this week to review Gilberth’s Rotisserie & Grill, the first full-service restaurant from the owners of the nearby New Spot and Oralia’s Café. He’s totally into the food, especially the fried chicken livers, the quinoa-crusted fried alligator cakes, and the braised tripe. Also he says the lima beans with oregano pesto are a “must-order” and the empanadas “show off the kitchen’s skills.” He’s not so hot on the sliders, and he’s really not happy with the service, saying it’s lazy and unprofessional. And the wine list was “written by someone who doesn’t care about selling wine.” He goes so far as to say, “It’s almost as if the place is setting itself up for failure,” but he “hope[s] not.” The verdict: two stars. [Chron]

Bauer Loves the Food, Hates the Service at Gilberth’s