When Mr. Bauer’s been particularly grumpy about a new restaurant, we can generally count on Patty Unterman to chime in with a cheerier take, as she does this week with her thoughts on Parallel 37 at the Ritz. She says that what she likes best about Ron Siegel’s new, less fussy plates is their “freshness, [and] liveliness. The kitchen pays attention to every component. You can sense the fine hand of the cook.” She calls the pork belly starter “fabulous” and raves also about his Dungeness crab, red snapper, and black cod. She’s not in love with the new décor — she’s actually the only critic to cop to missing the old Dining Room — but she says she’s “happy to adjust,” especially because it’s a lot cheaper to eat there now. [Examiner, Bauer’s take, Josh Sens’s take]
