The Other Critics

Michael Bauer Mildly Disappointed in Oakland’s Rumbo al Sur

It’s been a couple of years since Michael Bauer has lived up to the name Eater once bestowed on him (Mikey Two Stars), but lately it’s been ringing more true. Overall, Mr. Bauer concludes that he was “looking for a little more” at Rumbo al Sur, given that it is the long-awaited pan-Latin project of respected restaurateur Jack Knowles and À Côté chef Matthew Colgan. But he’s mildly impressed by several things, and in love with at least one dish. He compares the enormous “warren of stucco-walled dining rooms” to the Winchester Mystery House, but with a bar. He loves the lamb birria, the baby back ribs, and the chicharrones de pollo. But he’s nonplussed by “gummy” green rice, “surprisingly bland” mole short ribs, long waits for cocktails and between dishes, and overly sweet cocktails. So, yep: two stars. [Chron]

Michael Bauer Mildly Disappointed in Oakland’s Rumbo al Sur