We're not sure Jardinière, with its well-heeled opera and symphony clientele and high-roller-friendly wine list, has ever been called a great value. It's a splurge place, and one that people with conservative culinary tastes can depend on to pamper them. But today Michael Bauer puts his foot down on the annual price increases on their menu, writing in an update review, "Overall the food is still excellent, although there aren't the culinary stretches usually employed to justify this price point." He cites some unsurprising combinations like the $36 petrale sole with celery root purée and cabbage; and the $44 Cervena venison loin with chestnuts, mushrooms, and cipollini onions. He calls dessert the "high point," saying pastry chef Lisa Lu is doing better work than ever. But because he now feels like the place has become less worth the money than other restaurants of similar caliber, he downgrades them half a star, to three stars. [Chron]
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