The Other Critics

Bauer Revisits RN74, Finds It ‘Trendy But a Little Rote’ These Days

Bauer says that two years ago,
Bauer says that two years ago, “Everything [at RN74] came together in a neat, exciting package,” but now, not so much. Photo: Courtesy of RN74

We always assumed you only went to RN74 if you had an expense account and someone to impress — or just a really loose leash when it came to your expense account. But Michael Bauer now finds it less of a good value than he believed it to be when it opened in 2009, and he finds chef Jason Berthold’s food — while very good — “didn’t feel quite right in the space.” Mostly he’s appalled at how the wine list went from upscale to wallet-raping in the last couple of years, with one bottle of rosé going for $80 and the least expensive California Pinot Noir priced at $120. Like we said: This list is not geared toward people who are spending their own money. All told, he downgrades them to two and a half stars. [Chron]

Bauer Revisits RN74, Finds It ‘Trendy But a Little Rote’ These Days