The Other Critics

London Critic Is Mostly Impressed With French Laundry Pop-Up

The Disney-esque version of the French Laundry entrance, installed next to children's clothing in Harrod's.
The Disney-esque version of the French Laundry entrance, installed next to children’s clothing in Harrod’s. Photo: The Evening Standard

Fay Maschler at the London Evening Standard is the first out of the gate with a review of Thomas Keller’s French Laundry pop-up at Harrod’s, which launched Saturday for a ten-day run. While she notes that some imported radishes “surely [show] the biggest carbon footprint for an eentsy vegetable ever recorded,” she admits that “some” of the dishes in the nine-course menu are “sublime.” Looks like those Londoners are going to be hard to please, T-Kel! [Evening Standard]

London Critic Is Mostly Impressed With French Laundry Pop-Up