The Other Critics

Kauffman *Hates* the New Old Clam House; Reidinger Braves the Shootings to Enjoy Radish

Ye Old Clam House
Ye Old Clam House Photo: Yelp

You might have heard that The Old Clam House, S.F.’s oldest restaurant to operate continually from the same spot (since 1861), got a makeover earlier this year from new owner Jerry Dal Bozzo, of Stinking Rose fame. Well, Jonathan Kauffman now files the first official review of the place with its new menu, and it’s pretty harsh! He finds exactly two things to like: the iron skillet mussels (also on the menu at The Stinking Rose), and the clams escargot. As for everything else: “I’ve eaten better at Outback Steak House, and for less money.” But that’s not all! We get a few more opportunities to hear Kauffman in an uncharacteristically zinger-ish mood. He writes of the clams paella acini, “What is the inspiration here? SpaghettiOs? Leftovers night at the frat house?” And he concludes that “the Dal Bozzos have turned a well-loved, if slightly decrepit, local place into Fisherman’s Wharf South.” Ouch. [SF Weekly]

Ignoring the recent shootings that have made the 19th Street environs Hog & Rocks feel a little more scary, Paul Reidinger pays a visit to nearby Radish, on what he calls the “lovely, leafy lane” of Lexington. He calls the food “a cheerful mélange that moves winningly between all-American and new American,” whatever that means! And he does us the solid of informing us about Radish’s poutine, which is topped with a béchamel-like gravy, crisp bacon, and (oddly) avocado slices. He also compliments the baby-back ribs, the “Old World salad,” and the shortbread dessert. [SFBG]

Kauffman *Hates* the New Old Clam House; Reidinger Braves the Shootings to Enjoy