The Other Critics

Jonathan Kauffman Does Brazilian in Daly City; Reidinger Appreciates Txoko

Jonathan Kauffman falls in love this week with a Brazilian tamale called a pamonha (pah-MOAN-yah), which is served at Pamonha’s Brazilian Cuisine (6005 Mission) in Daly City. The restaurant claims to be one of only two in the States to serve this delicacy of Goiânia, and unlike regular tamales the masa in these comes out more pudding-like, “a texture reminiscent of long-cooked polenta.” He adores a special deep-fried one that isn’t always available, and he also kind of likes this “X-tudo” burger they have that’s topped with a pile of stuff, including a sliced hot dog and a pile of corn. “From what I could taste of the beef underneath, it wasn’t the best burger, but a big dollop of mayonnaise and 10 toppings were distracting enough to keep me from caring.” [SF Weekly]

Paul Reidinger doles out some of his characteristically mild praise to Txoko, but not before doling out a couple paragraphs on the pronunciation of the name, some words about the Basque people, etc. He did not try the $65 ribeye steak for two. But he does try some of the pinxtos and small plates. He might have liked the mushroom empanada, but mostly calls it “fungal” with an “Iberian flair.” And he seems to have liked a lamb loin chop with a squash and tomato tartlet, which he calls “one of the more striking items turned out by the kitchen.” [SFBG]

Jonathan Kauffman Does Brazilian in Daly City; Reidinger Appreciates Txoko