Well, everyone rushed to review Nojo this past month, so clearly Mr. Sens had to, too. He enjoys the “casual intemperance of izakayas,” and says of the food, “The seasonal thrust is most apparent in the nonskewered items… A little gems salad is a weary West Coast trope, but Dunmore revives it with briny pencil shavings of bonito. His chawanmushi, a savory custard, is an immigrant adapted [dish?], with green garlic, fava beans, and Dungeness crab in its silken folds.” He concedes that not everything works, and unlike Bauer and Kauffman before him, he’s a bigger fan of the skewers, saying his favorites were “the chicken hearts, spritzed with lemon and tingling sansho pepper; [and] the thick-cut beef tongue, lashed with tare, a sweet soy-sauce marinade, and spiked with shichimi chili heat.” All told: two stars. [SF Mag]
