Mr. Bauer files the first official review of Locanda, complaining at the outset that the pre-opening buzz was so “deafening” that it’s now very hard to get anything but an early walk-in table at best (obviously he himself must have been frustrated in his efforts to get his own reservations come review time). He calls the food “rustic and well executed” but says it’s “debatable” if it can compare to Cotogna, Flour + Water, or Delfina, implying that it can’t. He loves the fried “Jewish-style” artichoke and the “Quinto Quarto” (offal) section of the menu, especially the chilled beef tongue. But he says the pastas are a little inconsistent, though he liked the rabbit fettucine and the veal casoncelli alla saltimbocca. He does say that the service is top-notch, just like Delfina, and the restaurant will “still be a winner” after the buzz dies down, awarding them an admirable two and a half stars. [Chron, see also our menu slideshow]
