The Other Critics

Bauer Says Oliveto Has ‘a New Vibrancy’

Mr. Bauer returns to Oliveto two years after dropping the restaurant from three and a half to two stars — and inciting come backlash about his methods in the process. The update follows the departure of chef Paul Canales, and Bauer finds that new executive chef Jonah Rhodehamel and chef de cuisine Malachi Harland are “cooking as if they have something to prove.” He particularly loves the pastas, complimenting a purple pappardelle made with olives in the dough and topped with braised rabbit and capers as “simple, but totally integrated.” He also says he was “electrified” by a corned veal tongue dish with horseradish creme fraiche, lemon, and arugula. And though he wasn’t in love with the goat he had (it wasn’t goat-y enough), he finds himself more satisfied than the last time he dined there in 2009, when he felt “hornswoggled” looking at the bill (love that word!). “This time around… the prices seem more in line with the experience.” All told: three stars. [Chron]

Bauer Says Oliveto Has ‘a New Vibrancy’