Radius (1123 Folsom), which opened last summer in the former Julie’s Supper Club space, finally gets a Chronicle review this week — no one else has reviewed it either, actually, and they’ve already gone through a chef shuffle, hiring Matt Kerley in February, who formerly worked at Magnolia. Allen Matthews does the duty, and despite being thwarted twice in his attempts to dine there when the place was surprisingly closed and then on hiatus (perhaps between chefs), he ends up liking it to the tune of two and a half stars. He’s a big fan of Kerley’s meats, saying his charcuterie platter is “a long way from simply salumi,” and calling the house-made pastrami “a must-have.” Also, he says the grass-fed rib-eye is “luxuriantly tender” and says the star of the menu is the pork duo, which reminds him of shrooming back in the day: “The brined slices of pink tenderloin and crispy square of pork belly are superb, but the pickled baby shiitake mushrooms expanded the taste much the way another kind of mushroom might have expanded one’s mind at a Dead show. Simply wow.” [Chron]
