The Other Critics

Matthews Is a Fan of Enoteca Molinari; Bennett Pops Into Comstock

Though Mr. Bauer typically seems to make sure that he reviews most places that end up with star ratings north of two, a two-and-a-half-star joint slipped into the hands of Allen Matthews this week: Enoteca Molinari, which opened in Oakland in December. Matthews calls the space “sleek” and “deceptively modern” and focuses on the fact that it’s a first-time restaurant for owner Joe Madison, whose family has owned the building on College Street where the restaurant now lives since the 60s. The chef is Steve Jaramillo, a veteran of Lalime’s in Berkeley, and Matthews likes his bargain-priced Italian fare, like the tuna crostini, the “visually dazzling” insalata di finocchio, and a seared swordfish dish with oregano, salina capers and Cerignola olives. Also, their panna cotta is “sublime.” [Chron]

And despite Bauer’s having already reviewed the place last August, the Chron’s Lynne Bennett returns to Comstock Saloon for the Bar Bites column, giving an extra shout-out to the beef and marrow pie and Hangtown Toast. [Chron]

Matthews Is a Fan of Enoteca Molinari; Bennett Pops Into Comstock