The Other Critics

Bauer Talks Hits and Misses at Seven Hills

Mr. Bauer begins with a sort of back-handed compliment in his Sunday review of Seven Hills, the newish Russian Hill restaurant from chef Alexander Alioto. He compares the vibe of the early crowd to “the dining room of a very swanky assisted-living facility,” noting that younger folks arrived later, in an attempt to suggest that the restaurant pleases both young and old tastebuds. In the end, though he appreciates the pork riblets and the veal osso bucco (“the perfectly cooked hunk of meat was framed by cannellini bean puree and root vegetables, all surrounded by a veal jus that made it clear that the chef has learned how to make sauces”), he says the kitchen and staff are still “finding their way” and calls out some kinda bad service, just as Kauffman did earlier. All told: two stars, with one and a half for service. [Chron]

Bauer Talks Hits and Misses at Seven Hills