The Other Critics

Bauer Loves the ‘Pristine’ Beef at Shimo Modern Steak in Healdsburg

Photo: Alex Washburn/Chron

Mr. Bauer says it “might just be a modern breakthrough in steak house cuisine” that you can leave Douglas Keane’s new Shimo Modern Steak without feeling stuffed, thanks to the ability to share steaks and the lack of real dessert options on the menu. He writes that the Cyrus chef “puts his personal stamp on this overworked genre” by honoring a Japanese aesthetic and emphasizing quality over quantity of meat. Keane and partner Nick Peyton are sourcing their beef from Allen Bros. in Chicago, after trying more than 200 steaks, and Bauer calls the flavor of the cuts he tried “pristine” and barely in need of saucing. He was pleasantly surprised by the bean sprouts side dish, tossed with sesame, garlic, chile and soy, calling it his favorite of the sides. Also of note: The restaurant is doing Sunday prime rib dinners, three courses for $48, but Bauer called his prime rib night “the least satisfying” of his visits. All told: two and a half stars. [Chron, Earlier slideshow]

Bauer Loves the ‘Pristine’ Beef at Shimo Modern Steak in Healdsburg