The Other Critics

Patti U. Adores Spice Kit; Boer Heads Over to the Creek for Modern China Café

Photo: Grub Street

Who knew that Patricia Unterman could love an Asian take-out place this much, but she does. Writing in an obviously stellar new year’s mood, Patti calls Spice Kit (405 Howard Street at 1st), “brilliant,” “over-the-top sensuous,” and “a street-food breakthrough.” The five-spice chicken salad? “Wondrously succulent.” The steamed pork bun? It “saves you a trip” to Momofuku in New York. It’s that good, and you’d better order two. She admits that the banh mi isn’t quite up to Saigon Sandwich caliber, but that’s no matter. “Spice Kit’s ssäm, buns and taro chips are about as good as any food can get.” As good as it gets, folks. [Examiner, Earlier menu]

Meanwhile over at the Chron, Nicholas Boer pays a visit to Walnut Creek to try out Modern China Café (1525 Main Street), which he calls “a gem.” He compliments the moo-shu duck as “refined comfort food,” and says chef Jeff Zhou’s other dishes are “more straightforward and executed with authority,” but in “an effort to keep prices low, quality sometimes suffers.” All told: two stars. [Chron]

Patti U. Adores Spice Kit; Boer Heads Over to the Creek for Modern China