“Does San Francisco really need another pizza and pasta place?” Mr. Bauer asks, and knowing his proclivities, especially toward the former, one should be able to guess his answer. “I give it a resounding yes — at least, if it’s as good as Cotogna.” Thus begins his rave review of the place, in which, surprisingly, he doesn’t totally love the pizza! He says he’s had better crusts elsewhere, and it’s really the pastas and antipastis he’s most jazzed about — particularly the spinach sformato, the garganelli with rabbit, and the pappardelle with lamb ragout. He calls the interior “an exciting urban space,” and says the servers are “as well trained as the waiters at Quince.” All in all, a whopping three and a half stars, putting it right up there with Prospect and Benu as one of his favorite 2010 openers, and putting it at the same star level as Quince, which he’ll likely upgrade to four stars one of these days. [Chron]
