The Other Critics

Kauffman Checks Out Pica Pica, Mr. Pollo; Reidinger Is Characteristically Lukewarm About Osteria Stellina

Photo: Grub Street

Jonathan Kauffman continues on his recent summer trend of reviewing multiple places at once, this time comparing the Venezuelan arepas at Pica Pica Maize Kitchen (401 Valencia) and the tinier, humble, not-as-new, Mr. Pollo (2823 Mission). Of the latter he says, “When they’re good, his arepas crackle and gush, every bite a different story, the narratives laced together with the jade-colored sauce.” But he notes the hipster popularity of Pica Pica and says their arepas are “an easy lunch to down.” As for their other offerings he writes, “The maize’wich and the rubbery cachapa were so sugary that they overpowered any of the fillings I tried.” [SF Weekly]

Reidinger treks up to western Marin to Bauer fave Osteria Stellina, whose gray interior he compares to “an officers’ mess on a battleship.” As for the food, he seems mostly impressed but reserved in his enthusiasm (per uje), saying that the oyster pizza “works” but that the panzanella salad “was the kind the king might be served, if west Marin had a king.” [SFBG]

Kauffman Checks Out Pica Pica, Mr. Pollo; Reidinger Is Characteristically