The Other Critics

Hakka Blows Kaufmann’s Mind; Reidinger Sounds Confused by Art/S

Following Patti U.’s drumbeat to Hakka, Jonathan Kauffman sings the praises of their “humble” and inexpensive Chinese cuisine which he writes has “a lightness and a clarity that are rare even in much higher-end restaurants.” He also compares chef Jin Hua Li to Delfina’s Craig Stoll, and generally all but stands on the couch screaming “I love this restaurant!” [SF Weekly, Earlier]

Paul Reidinger heads to the Marina to a restaurant whose name we don’t understand: Art/S, which serves “global tapas.” One side of the menu is Mexican and Iberian small plates, and the other side is Japanese, primarily sushi rolls from the sound of it. As per his usual M.O., Reidinger has nothing especially positive or negative to say about the place, but compliments an octopus dish with bitter, smoked paprika which he thought “made a handsome contrast with the faint sweetness of the octopus.” [SFBG]

And we mustn’t leave out Patti U., who resurfaced last Friday at Koi Palace in Daly City where she once again munched away on things most white people are afraid to eat, like chicken feet dim sum and shark fin dumplings. She also loved a suckling pig she and friends enjoyed for a New Year’s meal, and the “opalescent… naturally sweet” lobster sashimi. [SF Examiner]

Hakka Blows Kaufmann’s Mind; Reidinger Sounds Confused by Art/S