Frances
Photo: Mike Kepka/Chron
• Melissa Perello’s two-month-old, Castro-casual bistro Frances gets a warm, three-star reception from Michael Bauer, who says that in Perello’s food, “all the ingredients are equal partners, carefully chosen to blend with one another.” He also digs the dollar-an-ounce house wine. [Chron]
• Ms. Unterman heads over to the other big December opener, Baker & Banker, showering them with talk of her licking her plate clean and their “gently imaginative dishes characterized by big, voluptuous flavor.” She mentions none of Kauffman’s objections to Jeff Baker’s abilities with regard to Asian flavors. [SF Examiner]
