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Eat Like Rick Bayless in Mexico City

Eat Like Rick Bayless in Mexico City

Last February, two weeks before Laiola owner and Tacolicious co-founder Joe Hargrave set off for Mexico City with Tacolicious cohort (and 7x7 editor) Sara Deseran, Rick Bayless happened by Laiola for dinner. "Can you imagine?" Hargrave told Grub Street. "I'm in the restaurant, I've bought tickets for Mexico City, and guess who walks into the restaurant?" After Hargrave introduced himself and told Bayless he was going to Mexico City, the Latin superchef gave him a list of food destinations to visit. "After he wrote me the list, he sat there and talked to me with so much animation, as if I had a camera crew with me. He's so un-celebrity. I was very taken by it," Hargrave said. After their Bayless-guided food tour, Hargrave and Desaran now use the techniques they observed in their pop-up Laiola spin-off, Tacolicious. Hargrave shared Bayless’s list with Grub Street, as well as his impressions of each spot.

Fonda El Refugio, Liverpool 166 Col Juariez
"You kind of sit at a counter. They have almost a hibachi, it's a tiny little griddle. It's like short-order cooking. Really simple. For their El Pastor, they have the grilled pineapple, which is such a cool addition to tacos."

Pujol, Petrarca 254
"We didn't go in. It was a little too fancy for what we were looking for. It was definitely something like a first-world expensive restaurant. It looked beautiful, but we were getting away from that."

Contramar, Durango 200, Col. Roma Norte
"That restaurant might have changed my life, it's so great. We went twice. It was unbelievable. In all of Mexico City, we went back. He even wrote it in his notes, 'best seafood restaurant in Mexico City.' And it was. It was so, so good."

• Mercado Medellin, Coahuila, Colonia Roma
"That was what he sent us to as a must, but the bigger one we spent more time in was the [Mercado] Merced. That was near the Zocalo. It's so crazy enormous. It goes on and on and on. Just a ton of stuff, food, music blaring. We were literally the only white people in there. It was so dense."

• El Moro, Eje Central Lázaro Cardenas 42, Barrio Chino
"It's a churroria, a little churro spot near the Zocalo. They serve them with different hot chocolates."

Taqueria El Farolito, Tacámbaro 4, at the corner of Alfonso Reyes
"It's a small chain. The one he sent us to was the original, and that was in Condesa."

• El Califa, 22 Calle Altata
"Even being from California and having spent time in Mexico as a kid, I'd never experienced anything like Califa before. A sit-down restaurant where they bring out the menu and there's many different kinds of tacos, and salsas, and grades of meat. That's kind of what I'm trying to do with Tacolicious right now."

Stop by Laiola tomorrow night for T-Lish Tuesdays, when you can get a Tacolicious taco, a shot of Don Julio Reposado, and a can of Tecate for $10.

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5 Comments - Add yours

  • Though I wouldn't go so far as to claim the authors are reverse snobs as Sneakeater does, I have to disagree with Lesley on one point: Nueva Cocina Mexicana (as well as traditional, regional Mexican) restaurants offer more than just creative twists on street food. There is much more to Mexican cuisine than street food and typical fonda fare--just as there is much more to American food than hamburgers. As Sneakeater says, Mexico City is one of the greatest restaurant cities in North America, and Mexican chefs are doing some amazing things with their cuisine these days whether it be experimenting with fusion or getting back to authentic regional delicacies. That's not to say that finding a gem of a street taco stand isn't worth the effort or that antojitos aren't a really delicious part of the Mexican food experience. It's just that that is only one part of it. And oh, I've been to Pujol and damn it was good--the authors' loss that they walked right by!

    By Catherine Craddock on 11/17/2009 at 6:18 PM

  • I don't think it's reverse snobbery to skip Pujol. I live in Mexico City and think it's better to try the real street food and fondas first, and then give places like Pujol a try, since they offer an amped-up, creative twist on what you'd find on the street. (Like a huarache with Kobe steak.) Next time you're in Mexico City, you should try the food stands at Mercado Arcos de Belem, near the Salto de Agua metro stop. There's one stand near a side entrance that has some pretty awesome flautas, covered in crema and shredded lettuce. Plus there are some great street-food mariscos only a few blocks from there... tostadas de pulpo, cocteles de camaron, etc. It's fantastic stuff.

    By Lesley on 11/17/2009 at 3:37 PM

  • You know what's funny? I sell beans to both Tacolicious and Pujol! Enrique Olvera is the first chef to sign on to our indigenous bean program. In fairness to T-licious, if they're in DF to refine and research their street food, Pujol isn't the place to go.

    By Steve Sando on 11/17/2009 at 1:43 PM

  • It strikes me as reverse snobbery of the worst kind to go to a first-rate restaurant city like Mexico City -- one of the very greatest restaurant cities in North America, right up there with New York and Chicago -- and avoid ambitious places because they're "like a first-world expensive restaurant." Are you only going to Mexico so the natives can put on their culinary sombreros and do a culinary folklore show for you? How is that country supposed to develop if people try to hold it back.

    By Sneakeater on 11/17/2009 at 11:13 AM

  • so jealous. i love rick bayless... & mexican food :]

    By sylvia on 11/17/2009 at 10:00 AM

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