Posts for November 5, 2009

Mission District to Get an East Coast Deli

To the delight of 500 Club regulars (who have always had to walk an absurd amount of blocks all the way down to Mission Street to get a decent burrito for their drink-cushion), an East Coast-style deli called Clare's has made its future presence known on 17th and Guerrero streets. According to Mission Mission, "'East coast style fun' better involve slamming back cases of Harpoon UFO and watching Irish people have fist fights." But that's not what the opening of this deli says to us. We're thinking pastrami. For real. Miller's East Coast Deli has got to stop being the only game in town. David Sax pointed out to us a couple weeks ago that somebody is bound to give deli meat the whole 4505 Meats treatment. Let's hope this is it.

Clare’s East Coast Delicatessen SAY WHAT? [Mission Mission]

Two Stars for Meridian's Pub Grub; Greens Ages Gracefully

• Carol Ness got by Meridian for a somewhat ambivalent two-star review, though it sounds like the fare is solid. "Meridian's approach to good pub grub is to fancy up typical bar offerings - wings get a lemongrass sesame barbecue sauce, fries are either medium-cut organic ($4), Parmesan garlic ($6) or delicious wedges browned in duck fat." [SF Chronicle]

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Original Joe's Suing Uptown Joe's

The standoff between Original Joe's and Uptown Joe's — slated this month for the former Hotel Majestic — has gone legal. Scoop reported today that the Duggan family this week sued the folks behind Uptown Joe's for copyright infringement. "According to the suit, the Duggan family was approached about reopening Original Joe's in the Hotel Majestic, calling it 'Uptown Joe's.' Despite the family's rejection of the idea, the defendants carried out a plan to replicate Original Joe's, including hiring ex-employees, according to the documents." Meanwhile, the fire-damaged Original Joe's has been silent on a possible reopening date, but as John Duggan's Fish & Farm partner Frank Klein noted in 140 characters last week, "Original Joe's gearing up to re-establish the domain and launch fresh. Copy cats beware; advice to you; seek neutral counsel."

Inside Scoop
[SF Chronicle]

Earlier: Original Joe's Fired Up Over Perceived Knock-Off [Grub Street SF]

Visit New Orleans in Portola at Queen's Louisiana Po-Boy Cafe

Photo: Courtesy Queen's Louisiana Po-Boy Cafe

Danielle Reese is obsessed with the food of her native Louisiana. Lucky for us, she's put that obsession to work moving as much of that state as she can into her new Portola-area restaurant, Queen's Louisiana Po-Boy Cafe. The Cajun and Creole joint opened today with imported bread from a bakery in New Orleans (she flies in par-baked loaves, then finishes them in-house), Gulf shrimp, Louisiana catfish, Patton's sausages, and even little details like Zapp's potato chips and Community Coffee. "When you come and eat a po-boy, it's like eating a po-boy in the French Quarter," Reese told Grub Street on the phone today.

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Illustrated Recipe: Ad Hoc at Home's Chicken Mar i Muntanya

The appeal of Ad Hoc at Home is its accessibility: unlike the dishes presented in Thomas Keller's other volumes — The French Laundry Cookbook, Bouchon, and the almost unattemptably technical Under Pressure — the food at Ad Hoc is designed for comfort and familiarity. And that's no accident: "Most restaurant cookbooks take what's happening in the kitchen and try to translate that for a home kitchen," chef de cuisine Dave Cruz told us, echoing an idea he explores in the book. "But the thing with Ad Hoc is that we started with home cooking, and asked ourselves how we could turn that into restaurant food. And now we've turned it back into home cooking." We went into the kitchen with Cruz to make one of the dishes from the new book — a multilayered paella-esque creation known as "Chicken Mar i Muntanya" — watch the slideshow to see how easy Ad Hoc can be when you bring it home.

The recipe: Chicken Mar i Muntanya.pdf

Related: Want see more of Ad Hoc's kitchen? Watch our behind-the-scenes slideshow.

In the Kitchen at Ad Hoc

With his third fourth cookbook, Thomas Keller brings us into the kitchen of his most accessible restaurant, Yountville, California's Ad Hoc. By now everyone knows the story: the restaurant was originally supposed to be temporary (hence the name), but its concept of a daily-changing, family-style fixed menu proved so popular (and the food was so good) that it's become a permanent fixture in the Napa Valley. In October, we checked out the restaurant in the company of Ad Hoc chef de cuisine Dave Cruz. On the eve of Ad Hoc at Home's publication, watch the slideshow to see all the little ways Keller and Cruz make a restaurant's food feel like home.

Related: Want to try an Ad Hoc dish at home? Watch our illustrated recipe slideshow.

Top Chef Front-runner Predicts Own Demise

No, we didn’t bother watching the Top Chef reunion show (or even the clips on Eat Me Daily) because, let’s face it, between past contestants shilling for frozen pizza and wrapping matzo balls in bacon, we’ve had just about enough of them. But we were vaguely intrigued by a sketchy E! Online report that one of this season’s favorites (Jennifer Carroll, Kevin Gillespie, Bryan Voltaggio, and Mike Voltaggio) revealed that they “got kicked off before the end” while having “a casual conversation with a new acquaintance in the jewelry district of downtown Los Angeles.”

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Peerless Coffee Still Unmatched; Julio Chavez Plans Knockout Restaurant

• After 85 years, Oakland's family-run Peerless Coffee is still the top choice for local restaurateurs. [SF Chronicle]

• Napa Valley grape growers are fighting invasive moths with other, sterile moths. [Press Democrat]

• A California-based tomato-processing executive has plead guilty for his participation in a conspiracy (that included Kraft and Frito-Lay) to drive up food prices. [AP]

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‘No Problem,’ ‘Working on That,’ and Other Things Waiters Should Never Say

Aspiring Hamptons restaurateur Bruce Buschel has now published part two of his list of 100 Things Restaurant Staffers Should Never Do, and it touches on some things we’ve griped about before, for instance “Do not ask if a guest needs change. Just bring the change.” Most of the other edicts are obvious — well, except for this one: “Do not play brass — no brassy Broadway songs, brass bands, marching bands, or big bands that feature brass, except a muted flugelhorn.” Ha! Tell that to Sasha Petraske! And: “Do not play an entire CD of any artist.” Ha again! Dude must’ve read our pointer to his first list, in which we recalled Babbo playing Axl Rose’s entire opus (not that we minded). The rule we love here, though, is “Do not ask, ‘Are you still working on that?’ Dining is not work — until questions like this are asked.”

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