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San Francisco Responds to Chang's Diss

In light of David Chang's recent public hatred of San Francisco, many (but not all) are calling the Momofuku chef out. You'll recall that Chang said, "Fuckin' every restaurant in San Francisco is just serving figs on a plate. Do something with your food." Grub Street commenters took issue with that. ScottRose called "toro excrement," noting La Folie's bone marrow crusted beef tenderloin with wild hedgehog mushrooms and truffled celery root. Chipsandguac vaguely sided with Chang — "imagine what NYC could do if we had that sort of produce." But where we expected a bunch of local blogs to yell "oh no he didn't!" there was silence. So we asked some chef-bloggers to weigh in. Line Cook's Richie Nakano sent us his thoughts via e-mail.

About Chang, that's sad to hear...for 2 reasons:
1) There are chefs manipulating food here (whether its good or not is another story.) But you cant deny what Daniel Patterson, David Kinch, and James Syhabout are doing.
2) The quality of ingredients here is so high, why would we fuck around?

I admire David Chang, but he's still dragging his spoon through sauce like it was 2003. I think there's going to be a point where the manipulated food at Ko (and Ssam to some degree) gives way to the original simplicity of Noodle and Milk Bar.

Earlier: Ten Things Anthony Bourdain and David Chang Hate [Grub Street NY]

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9 Comments - Add yours

  • Who cares what he thinks? We live here, he doesn't and probably never will. Lucky us!

    By prfsfo on 10/15/2009 at 6:52 PM

  • It's funny, after two recent trips to NY, I've come to the conclusion that they are about 10 years behind the bay area. There's great food but it's so Euro-centric it's going suffer in comparison to the actual food in Europe or the fusions of San Francisco. I think Chang is after a reaction, jealous or just doesn't "get it". Or maybe a combination of all three.

    By Steve Sando on 10/15/2009 at 4:57 PM

  • Very silly story here. Bored journalists trying to drum up some salacious content to fill up their workday. The quote was pulled from a fun conversation where two bad-boy chefs were let loose to rant... Let it go people.

    By steve-cell on 10/13/2009 at 4:00 PM

  • Chang and David Kinch are pretty tight, and Chang would readily acknowledge Kinch as one of the best in the country. After all, Kinch was invited to guest-chef one of the Four Fucking Dinners (the one at Milk Bar), which was fabulous. Chang is a loudmouth, but it aint so dignified that NYMag is taking a quote out of context to start a coast v coast sniping war. Cut it out.

    By nibblybits on 10/13/2009 at 11:01 AM

  • You know what they say...If you give a chef in NY crap, he'll make something great. If you give a chef in SF crap, he'll make crap. While laziness is not acceptable, there's something to be said for ingredient-driven cuisine. Perfect example = Bar Jules in SF

    By VJN on 10/12/2009 at 11:45 PM

  • Perhaps there was silence because no one really cares what he thinks about our food.

    By ColJack on 10/12/2009 at 10:41 PM

  • @jnspaz my guess is chang will be shot after leaving a food & wine magazine party. as always, puffy will go unscathed.

    By jonryan on 10/12/2009 at 9:43 PM

  • My only reaction to this statement is: where on earth did he eat while he was visiting SF? There isn't a single restaurant that I can think of that is serving figs on a plate. Not even Chez Panisse. I don't get it. Has "San Francisco" become a lazy shorthand among NY chefs for un-manipulated produce on a plate? Has he even been to SF?

    By laila on 10/12/2009 at 6:54 PM

  • this could be the start of an awesome east coast/west coast battle!

    By jnspaz on 10/12/2009 at 5:10 PM

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