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In his weekend outing, Michael Bauer took his turn at the newly redone Cafe Majestic. The interesting thing about the review, though, is the nature of the restaurant's popularity: "Three visits to Cafe Majestic revealed the same reality: a nearly empty restaurant." Of course, the vacancies might wane in the wake of a glowing Chronicle review, but it begs the question: how many amazing restaurants have failed due to no culinary shortcomings? (Winterland comes to mind) And for that matter, how many amazing restaurants are out there right now, waiting for a few precious diners?

As for Cafe Majestic, here's what Signore Bauer had to say:

One of [25-year-old chef Ian] Begg's strengths is the way he is able to come up with new ways to present popular items, such as foie gras. He sears the liver and places it on brioche over shavings of caramelized Brussels sprouts, which have the same earthy effect as truffles. He finishes the dish with a golden raisin sauce and splashes of vivid parsley oil.

When the waiter realized how much we liked the dish, he brought out one of the chef's experiments: foie gras ice cream with a small glass of sweet dessert wine. The glistening scoop looked like vanilla and had a similar creamy sweetness; the taste of foie gras hit at the end, the sensation cleared by a sip of wine.

It was an example of how servers go out of their way to enhance the experience. They're unobtrusive, but always there when you need them.

Other favorites include a cylindrical Dungeness crab salad ("layered with big chunks of seafood, mashed avocado, supremes of pink grapefruit, radish and a few lacy sprigs of frisee") that Bauer claims is the best he's ever had, which is high praise from a critic in San Francisco. Begg seems like a rising star in the mold of the modern chef, riffing on old favorites by combining local ingredients with haute preparations (there are many a foam on the menu). In the end, Cafe Majestic is praised as an elite restaurant with less-than-elite prices, earning it three stars from Bauer.

It's high time to discover the redone Cafe Majestic [SFGate]
Cafe Majestic [MenuPages]
Cafe Majestic [Official Site]

[Photo courtesy: SF Survey]