Seafood takes far better to spicy handling than conventional wisdom — with its delicate sauces of butter, shallots, and white wine — seems to understand, and Weird Fish isn't afraid of laying it on. A catfish po'boy ($7) wouldn't be much without its bayou-style rémoulade, just a slab of breaded, deep-fried fish filet on soft bread. But the sweet heat of the sauce, essentially a mayonnaise reinforced with mustard and cayenne, provided enough voltage to power the sandwich. For an extra $2.50 you can get a side of fries — a blend of potato and yam sticks — but, given the scale of the handsomely bronzed stack, sharing is a thought to consider. Salting up is another. In this connection, the vegetarian black-bean chili ($3 for a cup) deserves a mention; it was dotted with corn niblets and was excellent in a mild-mannered way once a few good licks from the saltshaker had been applied. A few good licks of chipotle pepper would have been nice too, but I didn't see that shaker.In the end, Weird Fish seems to occupy a unique little niche in the San Francisco dining scene. It's got the personality of the Mission (read: hipster) and the feel of a modern eatery. As Reidinger concludes, "It is not the obvious descendant of such old-timers as Tadich Grill and Sam's, nor is it the clear relation of such temples of luxe as Farallon and Aqua — but it does, perhaps, have some wisdom to impart to these august places despite being a whippersnapper." [SFBG]
The rest of the reviews, post-jump.
Michael Bauer heads to Oakland and bequeaths an enthusiastic("a destination for discriminating diners everywhere") three stars upon Wood Tavern, the Tablehopper discovers the perfect place for a first date at Mission Beach Cafe, Amanda Gold checks out San Rafael's Apadana and the Chowhounds really, really like Burmese food at Larkin Express Deli.
[Photo courtesy: Flickr]
